I have tried to put him in the backyard a few times but as long as he knows someone is inside, he will continue. As for the walking, it works until we get back home. I have even tried having him meet guests outside before coming in and it still didn't work. He is a shelter dog and I'm almost positive he's just trying to protect his home and us because he's never had someone who actually cared about him; plus we really don't get guests too often so it's just taking twice as long for him to understand.
My Dog used a Litter Box until 12 Weeks of Age. After that, I took her to the Horse Farm and let her 'Pack' with older well-trained Dogs. She mimicked their behaviors and she learned how to Sit, Stay, Come when called and lay down. The Dogs did a great job of training mine. I did not have very many problems. these dogs get a bad reputation for being hard to train but they really aren't. They are very stubborn and would rather die than negotiate. Therein lies the importance of understanding the Dog's body language, that tells you all you need to know. They are extremely intelligent and never forget a thing, including people and other animals. Good luck with it!
It may also help to exercise/play hard before you go so he is tired.
On the treat thing, find something your dog salivates for, maybe tiny bits of beef or chicken that you can stuff in the kong or freeze into ice cubes, or put in a treat dispenser. Give them in the crate only. (put the ice cubes in a food bowl to decrease mess, obviously)
If none of this works, then you can do a plan b, which is put in a really large crate or pen with some sort of indoor potty system. Or, try a medication and continue training until no more peeing, then ween off.
@elbrant said in choo choo! chew chew!:
@giza1 Joanne, is there a specific Nylabone that works? I've never had a dog who likes them. (shocking, right?)
We usually get the bigish ones, there is such a selection of Nylabones now. If your dog doesn't like them at first, try boiling it up in some sort of stock, infuse a little flavour.
-Joanne
@dana-k actually Dana, I do not believe the trainers say that eventually, they come to like their 'safe place'. Mine now will stay and eat in his crate, when the door is open. If i try to close it, i see the look of a prisoner, and he definitely wants to get away. I would have felt the same, btw. Currently, when i go out i 'crate' him in my salon. Until now, no real damage was done, at least not different from the damage he tries to do (like eat the plants) when i am with him.
Just a suggestion: When you see him "misbehaving" by chewing on 'less than ideal' items, offer him one of his toys and use the word "trade". In other words, 'chew on this instead', and when he accepts the toy - praise him. And when you see him get the toy on his own, praise him again. It could help him understand that certain toys are just for those times when you want to "rip someone's head off*".
(*not meant literally, only in doggy world play)
One of the best strategies if you will be going out is to put the treats in the crate a short time before you leave and lock the dog out, so he can see them but not access them. Hopefully by the time you are ready to depart the dog will be anticipating getting into that crate and enjoying his treats! This can work very well and result in a dog that is looking forward to you leaving.
I did something similar with my dog's roller ball, loading it up and making him wait for it. This dog that formerly had separation anxiety would become impatient and sometimes baroo to tell me he wanted me to leave so that he could have his ball!
Depends on the dogs. We have 2 athletic B's but they wouldn't dream of jumping our 3 ft. fence. They just don't. And they don't want to be in the garden if we're not with them. Silly beasts.
@Cafu said in Leaving her alone???!!:
Hi,
I leave my boy home for 1-2 hours regularly. If he is upset, he may chew on something, or find some personal item to either play with, or destroy. As long as you keep your valuables out of reach, it will be fine.
Tom
The issue isn't valuables. The issue is if he destroys and eats something that could kill him. Any dog that chews or destroys needs crating until he really is safe alone.
Stop with the free feeding... this is a dog that needs to be on a schedule. And a cup and a half might be too much for a 20lb dog. Try reducing it to a cup. I have also found that feeding 2x's a dog is better than once a day. I have never let my dogs free feed. Once he is on a schedule you can mostly determine when he should have to go... and then you take him out and stay out till he goes. A trick you can use (many don't like this but I will put it out there) is what people that show use. Insert a match in his bum half way.... This will stimulate him to go, when he does praise/treat him. And until he gets the idea, you will need to keep him crated or on leash. You can search the forum for other conversations about using a match to stimulate. Search for match trick
@jilliansquires Housetraining, you need to go back to potty training 101.... start all over again.... take her out "all" the time, after eating, sleeping playing, etc.....
The biting as you describe it is NOT normal behavior. Have you done any Obedience training with her? Work her mind?
And most important have you talked to her breeder?
I have worked with feral dogs in rescue who had never been on a leash, adults. Teaching loose leash walking isn't hard, but you need to back it with the "leave it" command. Mary's site is so simply it will make you feel faint. And it works. No pop and jerk, just good positive training. The lessons are on the left, other issues on the right.
http://www.clickerlessons.com/index.htm
I certainly would go through most the training, then get into an obedience class, but make sure by positive trainers .. go watch a couple of sessions first.
@betsy - sounds to me like you are doing everything right.... the pup and cats need to make their own peace... and sounds like it is going as good as expected. The pup will learn the body language as she gets older of the cats... and yes, agree with Debra... good that the cats done run... and if the pups gets "swiped" by the kitties... what a better way to learn to back off...
I have used wire for about 40 years. A good quality wire is safe. Obviously if you have a strong dog who is determined to break out, you may need to go to the uber expensive crates that are almost solid metal. Few dogs need those. As Pat said, no top means no dog. They laugh at 6 feet, much less 40 inches. They can jump or climb easily. Plastic ones are more easily chewed unless the solid ones... which block view and air.
Of my four recent basenjis, only one really yodelled and do so often (whenever I was too slow in getting him dinner :) ). My current female does not yodel, not even tries, but she does occasionally make other sounds (they sound horrible too, like a hawk just grabbed a rabbit). My first two not only never yodelled, they never made a sound.
Or you could do something unheard of these days and just reward with praise and enthusiasm! Works quite well with puppies until they start to feel "entitled".
@drew82
I've been doing rescue and breeding (not Basenjis, and not for 20 yrs now)... and I have to say that among responsible trainers, rescues, breeders and professional veterinary behaviorists, you won't find any who will say under 8 weeks is okay for any breed... and for many, 10 to 12 weeks is recommended. It is in fact illegal to take puppies under 8 weeks from some states and it should be in all of them. Call a few dozen rescues and ask them how many animals they deal with that have issues started from being placed too young. It is good you are working on things, just hopefully the physical responses won't continue. No breed needs to be swatted or even mildly hurt for training. Basenjis even less so than many. It hurts your relationship with the puppy, and you are punishing a baby for being a baby... there is no "rebellious thing"... just normal behavior you have to patiently train away from.
